While bottles of Dolcetto, the most obviously delectable wine of Italy’s Piedmont, don’t actually languish on the shelves, they are definitely undervalued. Bad news for its growers, excellent news for us. This is particularly ironic, since Alba, the center of production is also the home of Barolo and Barbaresco, two justly famous and sometimes pricey red wines.
Undervalued Dolcetto is Remarkably Good
An abundant supply of underpriced Dolcetto is good news because the wine itself is remarkable. It’s often compared to Beaujolais because both wines are fruity and mouth-filling, but the comparison is frivolous. Beaujolais Villages is often thin and sour-finished. Dolcetto has a consistent richness and a satisfying nut-like finish.
Dolcetto is subject to a variety of off-flavors that are lumped together these days under the heading ‘reduction’.(An earlier generation used the less elegant term ‘bottle stink’). The reduction smells may not go away with decanting and they weren’t prevented in the winery because the cost of the wine doesn’t justify the amount of labor required in racking.
The problem was so severe that producers really questioned the viability of the variety as few as 10 years ago. Micro-oxygenation solved most of these problems. Now, almost every solid producer of Dolcetto uses the micro-ox process to ward off reduction. This is really essential to understanding why some lesser Dolcettos can be off-putting on the nose, despite having beautiful color.
Where is Dolcetto Produced?
Italy
Dolcetto d'Alba Dolcetto plays third fiddle in Alba, with the best sites going for Nebbiolo and the next best to Barbera. Good stuff comes from Elio Altare, Elvio Cogno, Enzo Boglietti and Renato Ratti.
Dolcetto di Dogliani is a leader because many of the best vineyard sites in this area are planted in the variety. Dolcetto di Dogliani can be as rich as some Nebbiolos and Barberas, but be prepared to spend accordingly. Luigi Einaudi, Bruno Porro, Fratelli Pechenino are leaders in the area.
California
- Fattoria Enotria in Mendocino makes a yummy full-blooded version and a rosé (not tasted).
Australia
- Some Young Punks make a Dolcetto/Cabernet Sauvignon blend that nicely meshes the virtues of both varieties.
Pairing Dolcetto with Food
In the summertime, Dolcetto is the perfect white wine for a Caprese Salad of tomato, basil and mozzarella. Any pasta dish with red sauce or mushrooms, and of course, a well-made pizza. With cheese, try Taleggio, Epoisses or St. Marcellin. It’s a wine to be admired before dinner and enjoyed with it. Try to serve it a little below room temperature.
To learn more about selecting and serving Dolcetto, check out The New Short Course in Wine
